The view from the Bridge Hotel in Newcastle is a lesson in the city's history. Across the cobbled square in front of the 1901-vintage pub sits the Castle Keep, constructed in 1080 by Maurice the Engineer (also responsible for Dover Castle); to one side is Robert Stephenson's double-deck High Level Bridge (1849) and squatting on the other is the 1812, Grade I-listed, Greek revival Moot Hall.
The Bridge is even reputed to have a section of Roman pavement in its cellar – and how many beer gardens employ a near 1,000-year-old city wall as an elbow-rest?
Antiquity thrives in this corner of Newcastle, but the popular pub is not entirely preserved in alcohol, and has been altered significantly to suit modern demands, thankfully with a dollop of architectural sympathy. Its polished wooden panelling, unfussy chandeliers, sparkling engraved mirrors and original back-bar might tug a forelock to yesteryear, but like many city pubs, it has to cater for a wide range of clientele, drawn by the quality of its beer, the lunchtime menu and the buzz that animates evenings.
Interior details can be studied on quieter occasions, such as the original architects' elevations framed on one wall. The drawings emphasise what a handsome chap the building is too. Extensive bookshelves are open for exploration and, judging by the dog-eared nature of some of the contents, it's a regular pastime. Pleasures for riffling through include two volumes of the Concise Home Doctor, The Spy Who Came In From The Cold, and Who's Who 1973.
The menu includes the gastronomic combination defining that particular era – gammon steak, chips, fried egg and pineapple relish (£6.50) – and also Cumberland sausage curl and creamy mash with onion and ale gravy (£6.95), plus a selection of sandwiches (£4.50).
However, it's beer that the Bridge is renowned for – 11 real ales and craft keg beers, and much of it local. Hadrian Border High Level Bitter (4% abv), a solidly malty and full-on Scottish-style ale, is brewed little more than two miles away. Anarchy Blonde Star (4.1%), from a dozen miles north, has citrus hops to the fore; Black Sheep Golden Sheep (4.7%) is as refreshing, straightforward and reliable as beer comes, as is Deuchars IPA (3.8%). Unpasteurised Budweiser Budvar Yeast Beer (5%) – once a visitor, now in residency – is a remarkable example of Czech brewing heritage.
The Bridge and traditional music enjoy a long association. The pub has played host to folk band the High Level Ranters (who influenced fiddler and Northumbrian smallpipes wizz Kathryn Tickell) the Seventies folk-rock group Lindisfarne and even superstar Sting. So what if its Who's Who is a little dated? This is a pub that knows what's what.
The Bridge Hotel, Castle Garth, Newcastle-upon-Tyne NE1 1RQ (0191 232 6400)
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